Thursday, June 26, 2008

Rose Inlet, Haida Gwaii

We left Dyer Cover yesterday at sunrise (well, it was 4:30 am) for the big leg of the trip: a 16-hour crossing of the Queen Charlotte Sound to the southern tip of Gwaii Hanas, the National Park .

A killer whale (odd to see just one) and a humpback whale came out to say goodbye ...

It was an endurance test for all of us, as we headed into 2 meter rollers for the whole way.

We made good time, and a humpback whale came out to welcome us into the Hudson Channel.

We spent last night on a mooring in Rose Harbour, just around the corner from here, but it was a little rolly from the swell, so we moved to Rose Inlet this morning. We had deflated the dinghy and put it on deck for the Queen Charlotte Sound crossing, and this morning we re-deployed it, and went ashore for a short exploration.

A magical moss-covered forest, wonderful bird life, and an incredible diversity of shells, including the largest mussel shell we've ever seen.

Back on board for tea, card games, stories, and more of the banana biscuits Jane baked this morning. The boys drew comic strips before going to bed.

Tomorrow we're heading for SGang Gwaay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (previously known as Nintints, on Anthony Island).

Sunday, June 22, 2008

June 22 Shearwater

The plan was to be in Gwaii Hannas by now but a new challenge ! has come up and delayed us a little. We have decided that this is the wake up trip! There are bound to be a few problems with the boat coming out of hibernation.

We had a great trip around Cape Caution despite the boys being a little seasick. We spotted a sea otter on its back having lunch about 8 miles before the cape and then at around 2 miles before the cape a Humpback came by and put on a display.

It`s very hard to capture the moment on camera. Click to enlarge


We spend a very calm night at Green Island anchorage as a SE Gale brewed back where we'd come from!!

We decided to head up the Fitz Hugh Sound to Codville Lagoon the next day. A humpback followed us up a bit of the way. We spotted him first a few miles off when he must have breached and made an incredible splash!

Ian and Conor at the bow in the rain.


Conor Navigating while I shelter from the rain!!

The rain finally stopped (it had been rainy for nearly 36 hours) when we got to Codville and the boys and I went out in the dingy. If there aren't great trails to explore onshore the boys love to scramble along the foreshore. I drop them off and follow in the dinghy so they can be picked up again when the way is no longer passable.


Seconds after we got back on the boat the heaviest rainfall came down .. we must have had about 2 inches of water in the dingy the next morning!!

On discovering the alternator isn't working we decided to go into Shearwater .

We came through Lama passage on the way with this cruise ship. Conor wanted to jump ship when we told him it had swimming pools, cinemas and resturants on board.

Its the weekend so Ian's been trying to get things sorted.. no luck so far. We'll see if someone can take a look in the morning. In the mean time the boys and I have been exploring. We took a muddy walk up to a lake today and the boys made friends with some local kids Callum and Desmond and played ball with them for a while.


The boys add a stone to what looks like an ongoing build!

The boys figured it was easier to get their legs muddy so the trousers came off.

The local Eagle has been keeping the boys amused and they also heard their first raven call when out for our walk today... we're pretty sure we spotted bear and dear tracks along the way also.




Wednesday, June 18, 2008

June 19th Port McNeill - Heading North

Day 28: 50˚35.499'N 127˚05.368'W

Since Blind channel we have come up the Johnston Strait, stopping off in Port Harvey to avoid a NW gale... We set the prawn and crab traps and manged to catch one large prawn, which I cooked coming down the inlet, and a huge starfish took a fancy to our crab trap!

There are quite a few float homes in Port Harvey... this one caught our eye, it's not often we come across someone listing more to port than ourselves!!



We've been in Port McNeill for the past four days, sorting out a generator problem and sourcing electronic charts for the Queen Charlottes, which we discovered (to our horror, only once we had arrived in Port McNeil!) are not in the West Coast chart package we have. The boys have been busy watching the log loading operation near the dock, playing in the local park and we even took a trip to the local swimming pool.

Conor has discovered the BLT, and has had several during our stay here.

Here they are, close to the park beside the world's largest burl... 24 tonnes apparently!!



We plan to head out early in the morning across Queen Charlotte strait... We won't have internet access again until Queen Charlotte City in a few weeks, but we'll try and get some updates done over the radio.

Engine problems

OK, so here’s the blog you’ve been waiting for: the stuff that’s going wrong on our trip.

We have two diesel engines on this boat: a Yanmar 44 hp turbocharged 4-cylinder main engine (4JH-HTE), and a Yanmar 3-cylinder generator (commonly referred to as a genset)(3GM-FL). These two engines have performed flawlessly for us for the entire time we’ve owned the boat (since 1998).

If we are staying at an anchorage for more than one night, we would normally run the genset for about 45 minutes in the morning, and then another 45 minutes at night, to refresh the batteries.

We have several different ways we can charge our batteries: the genset; shore power when we have it; the alternator on the main engine; and solar power (we have one panel which can provide 6-8 amps on a sunny day …).


Pirates Cove

Pirates Cove was one of our two-night stays, so during the full-day portion of our stay, we ran the genset in the morning. Then, when we attempted to start it that evening, it wouldn’t start. Neither would the main engine!!

Now, I have always been a little intimidated (terrified?) by engines, even though I grew up in rural Ontario, where you’d expect that exposure to tractors and other farm equipment would give one a certain comfort level with these things. A large diesel engine has always been a black box to me. I have learned where the solenoid is, because sometimes our “stop” button malfunctions, and I have to get down into the engine area and manually stop the motor.

So, there we were, with neither engine able to start, batteries slowly losing power (note that we have a LOT of battery power on the boat, somewhere in the neighbourhood of 800 amp hours. Six 12-volt batteries for our main “house” bank, which drives all the onboard stuff like lights, water pressure, electronics, etc.; a separate battery for the main engine starter; another separate battery for the genset starter; and finally a large separate battery for the bow thruster). The problem with the main engine appeared to be insufficient battery power. Somewhere I’d read that there was a way to combine all our batteries into one giant bank of batteries, so we got all our manuals out, and Jane found the way to do it. Once combined, there was enough power to start the main engine, which we then used to charge the batteries.

The following morning, we were still unable to start our genset, and we were very concerned about our batteries, as the starter battery should have been strong enough to start the engine. We decided to change our plans, and go to Secret Cove to get help, as I’d read that this was a good place to resupply going north (which we are).


Secret Cove

So, we went to Secret Cove. Once we got there, it looked pretty quiet. Jane asked why we had come here; I re-explained that this was, according to the book, a good place to get supplies, access to marine equipment, diesel mechanics, etc. Jane re-read the book, and pointed out that we should have gone to Secret Bay, not Cove. However, we were here now. It was raining: we anchored, and I dinghied over to the only marina we could see. At this point, what we thought we needed were new batteries for the main engine starter and the genset starter, so that’s what I bought. We took them back to the boat, and swapped the old ones out and the new ones in.

Nothing happened. We couldn’t start either engine. As luck would have it, John, from the marina, was passing our anchorage in his work boat. I hailed him, and he came over. I invited him aboard to have a look, and before he even looked at anything he asked whether there was water in the engine. I said I wasn’t sure, so he opened the air intake, and water flooded out. My heart sank, I thought oh no, we need a new genset, but he advised us that this wasn’t unusual, and that the engine could easily recover. ‘All’ (!!) we had to do is remove the injectors, turn the fly wheel until the water was out of all the valves, then put it back together and it should start. He didn’t have time to help us; he was three weeks behind as it was …

Ha! Those instructions were pretty much a lot of gibberish to me. Well, after a long discussion with Jane, we decided to try it. We got out the manuals, read them, re-read them, and finally tackled the job. We got the injectors out, turned the fly wheel (that was the hard part, because of the way the engine sits in the genset compartment, I had to turn it by pushing the fan belt), tons of water came out, then we carefully put the whole thing back together again, and HOLY COW!!!!! IT STARTED !!!!! With a ton of smoke, but it started!!

We were VERY happy! I went back to John the next morning, told him that it worked. He told me that after he left us the previous night, he’d remembered that there might be compression release levers on the engine, which would get rid of the water without having to disassemble anything. Once back on the boat, we looked at the engine, looked at the manuals, and sure enough, we have compression release levers. Even so, the experience we got taking those injectors out was invaluable.


Chatterbox Falls

Arriving at Chatterbox Falls, at the top of Princess Louisa Inlet, we dropped anchor, and then prepared to do a shore tie (this is a technique whereby you fix yourself in place by having the anchor holding you at the bow, and a line from your boat to the shore to hold your stern. This way your boat doesn’t swing around, as it normally would due to wind and current). We shut down the main engine, then I dinghied to shore with a line, to tie it to a ring fixed to a rock. We would normally now have used the engine to reverse towards shore, to shorten the distance and tighten ourselves up between the land and the anchor. But the engine would not start.

Tried to start the genset. It wouldn’t start again, and we made use of the decompression levers: a ton of water came out, but once the water was out, we were able to start it. Once the batteries were recharged, we were also able to start the main engine.

Princess Louisa inlet was another two-night stay: the following morning we started the genset (no problem). Then, for good measure, we started the main engine. No problem.

The following morning, we prepared to leave. We attempted to start the main engine: nothing happened. After about half an hour of trying, we realised that something was very wrong. As it happened, there were quite a few trawlers at the dock, and I went over to see it anyone could help. Well, everyone was willing to help! First, Larry came over and towed us with their dinghy over to the dock. Then, Harold from the Madeira II came on board, tried to start the engine, listened to what was happening, and felt fairly certain that there was water in the engine. I had already looked at the injectors on the engine, and knew that removing them would be a much more difficult job than it had been on the genset. However, Harold suggested a much easier solution: loosen the bolts on the manifold, and the water would be able to get out that way. We looked at the manuals (our boat is blessed with an extensive library of manuals for everything aboard …), and Harold went back to his boat and returned with an impressive array of tools. We were able, after a lot of work, to get the manifold loose enough to let water out, and sure enough, there was a lot of water in the engine! I was able to get easy access to the flywheel, and with great difficulty I turned the flywheel until all the water was out.

We put it all back together, and sure enough (again with a great billow of white smoke) the engine started!!

All the while, there was much speculation on what the problem was, and why both engines had failed essentially at the same time when there was no significant connection between the two. They share a common sea water intake, and share a common fuel supply, but that’s it …

By this time, it was too late to leave, so we spent another night at Chatterbox Falls.


Pender Harbour

The next morning, everything seemed to be working, so we left Chatterbox Falls, and motored to Pender Harbour, where we hoped to figure out what the problem was. We radioed ahead to arrange for a mechanic to come down and give us an assessment of the problem. Chuck, from Pender Diesel, came to the boat about a half hour after we docked, and had a look: suggested that it was either our mixing elbow (beyond the scope of this blog!) or our muffler.

Once there, at the dock, we tested a few things, but everything seemed to be still okay. But we had a nagging feeling that we hadn’t found the problem.

[An interesting note: while rummaging around the genset, I realised that the foam air filter was disintegrating. While in the general store looking for some kind of substitute, I left the air filter cover on the floor. I looked around, and a man was peering down at the cover, and when I walked back, he said “Yanmar air filter”. Turned out he was a diesel mechanic, name of Garfield. I was very impressed! He also gave me a substitute for the foam: wrap a stainless steel scouring pad around the core inside the air filter cover …]


Squirrel Cove

We left Pender Harbour, went to Squirrel Cove, still everything seemed okay. However, the following morning the main engine was again full of water, this time in a secluded anchorage … We knew what to do, but still didn’t have the proper tools: luckily Ken from Veritas III nearby had the socket wrench sizes we needed, and after a couple of hours we got the main engine working again. This time we determined to go to a town where the facilities existed to sort this out once for all, and we headed for Campbell River.


Campbell River

Once there, we contacted Altech Marine, and Terry came out to have a look. He took out the mixing elbow (!!) to test it back at the shop. He also mentioned that the anti-siphon valves needed to be looked at, as they were one of the main causes of water in the engine.

We located two anti-siphon valves: we assumed they were for the main and genset, but they didn’t appear to be connected. One was a strange type of anti-siphon, which had a small air tube coming out the top, and leading to a vent at the stern, which was connected to a second similar tube coming from somewhere else. We didn’t pay a lot of attention to the second tube.

The following morning Terry came back. He said there was nothing wrong with the mixing elbow. We checked the two anti-siphon valves, they seemed to be okay. Terry left.

I decided to try to find out where the second tube on the stern vent was coming from. After some searching, I found it: another anti-siphon valve!! This was the one actually being used by the genset!! We had found a connection between the two engines, and Terry had said that anti-siphon valves were a common cause of water getting into the engine. We went back to where the tubes met at the stern: they met, then they could either go out the stern through an air vent, or though a through-hull close to the water line. We did a test: we disconnected the tube from the main engine anti-siphon valve, and then started up the genset. Sure enough, a small but steady stream of water started flowing out of the tube at the main engine anti-siphon valve: if not disconnected, it would have been flowing into the engine!!

After more investigation, we discovered that the through-hull was blocked! It turned out that a rag had been left in the hole after they painted the hull (all the through-hulls had been blocked, to prevent them getting painted over). After a bit of work, we got the cloth out.

In the meantime, we’ve equipped ourselves with an impressive array of tools, so that if it happens again, we’ll at least have the wherewithal to fix it.


Port McNeill

In Port McNeill, I changed the fuel filter on the genset, and then couldn’t bleed the air out of the system. It took two days of work, then I gave up and called a mechanic, who managed to bleed it after a lot of work, dong pretty much what I had been doing, but he was just a little more brutal about it than I had been …

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

June 11 - Blind Channel

So where have we been since the last update…

After Chatterbox Falls we headed to Pender Harbour. We stayed at Fisherman’s Resort and took a real shine to the place. While Ian was sorting out the Engine and doing oil changes the boys and I headed up to the Garden Bay Lake to swim in the sun shine. We spotted some turtles sunning themselves on the logs on the way. Although the boys went fishing at the lake edge I was the only one who took the plunge, the 1st swim of the season.

Ian and the boys saw a huge school of fish waiting for the reversing rapids into a small lake beside the marina. It may have been some herring going into the sealake to spawn. We liked Pender Harbour so much we have investigated getting a spot year round for the boat there. Although when the season starts we figure it’s a very different and certainly much busier place.

After Pender Harbour still without an answer to our engine problems we headed up to Squirrel cove and got our first real sail of the trip with a good wind from the SE, we had a great run with the Jib and the new Staysail up.



Unfortunately, when we went to take in the jib, the UV strip got quite damaged flapping in the wind (something we forgot to get looked at over the winter, and it’s been exposed for the last 10 years!). (On a sail which furls around a rod rather than getting taken down, the outer edge (the leech), which remains exposed to the elements, is usually covered with an additional piece of material to protect the sail itself from ultraviolet radiation).

We had a great day at Squirrel Cove at low tide. There was a lot to be discovered! Crab, Starfish, Sea Cucumbers (California Sticlopus)... My favourite was the Leather Star, and Eoin spotted a cool green one. Conor spotted lots of yellow goop and we were delighted, when we looked it up when we got back to the boat, to find it was called Boring Sponge!

After Squirrel Cove we headed over to Campbell River ( see engine trouble log!!) . It was touch and go if we’d be able to fight the current to get in. Campbell River is very close to Seymour Narrows, where the tidal current can run up to 16 knots!! (Our top boat speed is 8 knots). We did manage to just fight the current (and a 20-knot wind!), and had a great few days in Campbell River, somewhere we might not have visited if we hadn’t had the engine issues. Good fish and chips was had at Dick's, and the boys really enjoyed the trip to the Maritime museum. The highlight for Ian and me was probably getting to the bottom of our engine problem, and a great meal at Patti’s Lighthouse restaurant at the top to of the dock, where we all enjoyed the great live music from Ocean Pearl. We also took down the jib, and found someone who could repair the tears in the UV strip.

One advantage to being in town for a few days is that you get to buy the newpapers!

After leaving Campbell River we decided to stay close by for a while and make sure everything was really sorted. We headed over to Rebecca Spit, about 12 miles away, for a few days. It had a great beach with some of the best drift wood we’ve seen, and there was even somewhere to catch ball and play football.




The weather was so good one day the first sea swim of the trip was had. The last night there was however pretty miserable at anchor, with the wind blowing heavily from the NW.

As the NW wind wasn’t going to let up we moved on to Octopus Island about 12 miles further north and with great protection from the NW. This meant we got to enjoy the sunshine the NW gale was bringing without the wind effects. A supper day was had by all with our first real chill in the cockpit with books.

Today we have moved on to Blind Channel, a small resort that Ian and I have been to before and really liked. The sun is still shining and the wind easing from the NW so we might even get to sail up the Johnston straight tomorrow. We spotted some dolphins and porpoises along the way, and once at the dock at Bline Channel, had a great walk through the forest to a huge cedar tree.


Thanks to a tree stump !

Conor's Family pic

Eoin's Family Pic

We’ll take it easy in the morning before heading out with the tide up the Johnston Straight to the north east tip of Vancouver Island.